You’ve probably heard people say that mechanical watches have jewels in them. In most cases, they aren’t just referring to the precious stones that decorate the dial and bezel of these watches that transform them into elegant fashion statements. There are jewels within the watch movement that serve a real functional purpose beyond mere aesthetics. This post explains watch jewels and their function within a mechanical timepiece. 

What are Jewels in Watch?

Jewels in mechanical watches are smooth, precious stones used within the watch movement. They are also known as jewel bearings because they act like actual bearings in the moving parts of the timepiece. In the past, watchmakers used natural rubies to create the bearings in luxury watches. However, this has since been replaced by synthetic rubies or sapphires. 

The main purpose of watch jewels is to reduce friction between the different moving parts in the timepiece. They are typically placed in critical areas of the watch, such as the pivot points of gears and the escapement mechanism. The presence of a bearing between these metal components allows them to move freely so they can measure time precisely. The reduced friction also limits how much these metal components grind against each other, limiting wear and tear over time. 

Types of Jewels Used in Mechanical Watches 

Watchmakers use different types of jewels in mechanical watches to achieve various purposes. Here’s an overview of the most common jewel types and their specific roles within a timepiece. 

Hole Jewels

This is also known as a pierced jewel. Hole jewels have a hole bored into them, which makes it possible to mount them on the wheel axle or pivots of the watch. They work alongside the cap jewel to make the axle spin. Hole jewels can also be used as part of the watch’s anti-shock assembly to improve shock absorption. 

Cap Jewels 

Unlike the hole jewels, cap jewels don’t have a hole bored into them. They’re primarily used in the balance staff to minimize movement. Cap jewels can also be used in conjunction with the hole jewels to create a pivot bearing, which protects the watch in case it gets dropped or hit by something. 

Pallet Jewels 

A pallet jewel is a brick-shaped jewel. A timepiece typically has two of these watch jewels, with one in each arm of the pallet fork. This is an important movement component designed to lock the escape wheel in place (the part of the timepiece that controls the transfer of energy from the power source to the counter). 

Does Having More Jewels Matter?

The minimum number of jewels a mechanical timepiece should have is 17. However, more complex mechanical watches, such as self-winding automatic models, can have even more. On average, the number of jewels within these complex watches is between 25 and 27. 

So far, the timepiece with the highest jewel count is the Ref. 57260 pocket watch from Vacheron Constantin. This watch is considered the most complicated timepiece in the world, with 57 complications and  2,800 components. With so many moving parts, it only makes sense that the timepiece has so many jewels between the metal components. 

The Logical One by Romain Gauthier is the wristwatch with the most jewels, numbering 63. This shows that the number of watch jewels is generally a function of complexity and functionality. A watch with more jewels isn’t necessarily more valuable than one with fewer jewels. 

Conclusion 

On Bezel, you can find a highly curated selection of timepieces with various finely crafted movements and jewel configurations that enhance their performance and durability. Our selection includes some of the most complex and rare collectible timepieces from the biggest brands in the industry. Browse the Bezel website or download the Bezel App to look through our impressive selection of watches and find just the right one for you.