From Rolex and Tudor to Panerai, sunburst-finished watch dials offer depth, dimension, and dynamic light play. Learn how they’re made — and why they matter to collectors.
Not every watch detail needs to shout to get your attention. Some just catch the light a certain way, and that’s enough.
The sunburst dial is one of those quiet charms. You see it in passing, tilt your wrist, and there it is. Depth, movement, and dimension a plenty. It’s not a new idea, and it’s not always flashy. But in the right light, it does something no flat lacquer or matte finish can: it moves with you.
Collectors often focus on the obvious: movements, case shapes, complications. But every now and then, it’s the surface that stays with you. And more often than not, it’s a sunburst dial that leaves a lasting impression.
Want to see the effect for yourself? Browse a curated selection of watches with sunburst dials, from subtle to show-stealing, available now on Bezel.
The short answer? It’s a dial with ultra-fine radial brushing that spreads outward from the center, mimicking the appearance of the sun's rays. Depending on your angle of view, it shifts between bright highlights and shadowed lows, giving the entire watch a unique, low-key shimmer. It’s the horological equivalent of catching golden hour at just the right time.
Unlike glossy or matte dials, which stay visually static, a sunburst finish is alive–never looking quite the same twice. And that’s really the magic. It doesn’t just look good; it plays with its environment. It responds.
Most sunburst finishes you’ll come across are created by highly advanced, machine-guided engraving systems. These tools cut precise, ultra-thin grooves into the dial’s surface, all radiating from the center point. Once layered with metallic paint or lacquer, those grooves catch and reflect light in a dynamic, almost hypnotic way.
But there’s also a more old-school route—rare, yes, but certainly worth mentioning. Some higher-end sunburst finishes are achieved using traditional guilloché techniques, specifically through the use of a rose engine lathe. This is the same hand-cranked, centuries-old method used to create deeply intricate patterns on everything from Breguet dials to vintage Fabergé eggs. In the hands of a trained artisan, it produces something richer, more organic, and undeniably human.
Sunburst finishes do something funny to the overall design of a watch, adding an undeniable degree of presence. Not in an attention-grabbing way, but in a “this feels more complete” way. A great sunburst dial can tie the whole watch together, elevating everything from the case material to the handset in question.
Take the Rolex Datejust, for instance. In slate grey or bright blue, that brushing adds just enough drama to make an everyday piece feel special. Or take the Everose-cased Day-Date 36 with a chocolate dial. There’s a quiet harmony there—the warmth of the gold and the dial’s shifting tones just work together. Nothing about it is trying to stand out too prominently, and that’s kind of the point.
And then there are the sport models. The Yacht-Master 40, with its vibrant blue sunburst dial, somehow manages to feel more playful than other watches in its class. Even the now-discontinued “Hulk” used its green sunburst finish to surprising effect, giving what could’ve easily been a perhaps juvenile colorway an extra layer of depth.
One of the things that makes sunburst finishing so appealing is how flexible it is. Dress watches, divers, GMTs—it works across the board.
Panerai gets it. You’ll find sunburst blue or tobacco dials on certain Radiomir and Luminor references, and they completely shift the tone of the watch. That soft brushing tempers the boldness of the case, adding a little warmth and glow.
As of late, even Tudor’s doing it too. Their new Black Bay 58 (Ref. M7939A1A0RU-0001) features a subtle sunburst burgundy dial that plays nicely off the warmth of the similarly crimson-colored bezel. It’s a smart move. The finish gives just enough lift to keep the dial from feeling heavy, all without compromising legibility.
A sunburst dial gives a watch a bit of movement. Not literally, course, but visually. It doesn’t sparkle, exactly, and it’s not overly flashy. But it shifts, subtly, as the light changes. Where you are, the current lighting conditions, even how you angle your wrist—it all plays into how the dial looks in that moment.
In a watch world that’s increasingly dominated by perhaps novel contrivances, the sunburst dial is refreshingly simple. It doesn’t try too hard. It doesn’t need to. Whether it’s on a Tudor Black Bay or an ice blue dial-fitted Day-Date in platinum, it earns its place by making everything around it feel a little more thoughtful and considerately finished.
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