In comparison to other brands, Patek Philippe’s more demure marketing strategy makes speculation surrounding upcoming releases far more challenging. With that said, this translates to all the more delight and surprise when we’re treated to the legendary manufacture’s usual brand of impossibly tasteful, watchmaking excellence, and 2022’s novelties just announced at Watches & Wonders are no exception. After going through the 12 newly introduced models, we’ve found a lot to love, but here’s a taste of what’s got us particularly excited. 

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First off, these latest novelties prove that all that glitters isn’t Tiffany blue, and that green dials are surely still in vogue. Pieces like the olive green, diamond-set Twenty~4 reference 4910/1200A and the similarly olive green and diamond-set ladies’ World Time reference 7130R-014 prove this notion, but perhaps most impressive is the latest take on the reference 5270P, featuring – yes, you guessed it – a lacquered green dial with a black gradient rim.

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Just like other iterations of the Grand Complication watch, it’s powered by the Caliber CH 29-535 PS Q, but in a welcome return to form, the complications are better distributed across the dial, with the subdial at six o’clock no longer cutting into the lower track, nor yielding what some collectors called the “chin.” Paired with a black strap with matching green stitching, this one is nothing if not a stunner. 

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Speaking of stunning, we were perhaps most stunned by a new first from Patek Philippe – the Annual Calendar Travel Time reference 5326G-001. Marking the first instance of the manufacture’s marriage of the two useful complications, the Calatrava-cased watch is powered by the all new caliber 31-260 PS QA LU FUS 24H, and housed in a new white gold case measuring 41 mm across. Paired with a heavily textured dial, which more or less mimics the appearance of “tropical” vintage dials that have aged from black to brown over years of exposure to the elements, this is a true deep cut from Patek that’s sure to excite collectors who appreciate a vintage aesthetic. 

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Offering a similar feel, albeit in a less complicated package, is the new Calatrava reference 5226G, which features a similar, hobnail flanked white gold case measuring 40 mm across, and a simple time and date display, powered by the caliber 26-330 S C. This one is sure to be a good deal cheaper than the aforementioned Annual Calendar Travel Time, though still packing that same vintage vibe that’s sure to impress. 

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Aside from the stuff of dreams reference 5374/300P, boasting perpetual calendar and minute repeater complications in a platinum and baguette cut diamond and sapphire set package, our stand out pick from this latest crop of offerings has to be the new for 2022 reference 5231G-001, which is perhaps the brand’s best World Time watch in quite some time.

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Like other fans of the now discontinued 5131G, we’ve longed for the return of a piece that encapsulates the restrained elegance of Patek Philippe’s earliest Grand Feu cloisonné world time watches, but for its return to be this good is truly a treat, and an indication of the manufacture’s continual commitment to honoring its heritage. Needless to say, Patek Philippe has delivered what only Patek Philippe can yet again, and we’re nothing if not big fans. 

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