Since its founding in 1839, Patek Philippe has been at the forefront of the industry, always pushing the envelope of watchmaking with game-changing mechanical developments and timeless, tasteful designs. Given that the storied watchmaker exists in a somewhat rarefied air, buying your first Patek Philippe can feel a little intimidating, even if you’re a seasoned collector. But it doesn't have to be! Whether you’re stepping up to a new level of watch-collecting, or jumping straight to the top, we’re here to help with our best tips, tricks, and insider knowledge for buying a Patek Philippe.
Patek Philippe Brand History and Significance
What Makes a Patek Philippe a Patek Philippe?
- Pioneers of Modern Watchmaking
- Understated Luxury
- Blue Chip Status
- Heirloom Grade Horology
Key Patek Philippe Models to Know
- Patek Philippe Calatrava
- Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse
- Patek Philippe Gondolo
- Patek Philippe Twenty~4
- Patek Philippe Aquanaut
- Patek Philippe Nautilus
- Patek Philippe Complications
- Patek Philippe Grand Complications
Should You Buy a Modern or Vintage Patek Philippe?
Bezel’s Patek Philippe Picks
- Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5711/1A-010
- Patek Philippe Aquanaut Ref. 5167A-001
- Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5940R-001
- Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Ref. 5270P-001
- Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5196P-001
- Patek Philippe Twenty~4 Ref. 4910/1200A-011
Patek Philippe Brand History and Significance
The Patek Philippe story begins with Antoine Norbert de Patek, a former Polish soldier, who first went into business with watchmaker François Czapek in 1839. Later, Patek began collaborating with another innovative watchmaker, Adrien de Philippe, and together, they registered the name Patek, Philippe & Cie. in 1851, kicking off watchmaking’s most storied partnership.
Over the years, Patek Philippe watches have been seen on everyone from Queen Elizabeth II, Princess Diana, and John F. Kennedy, to Paul McCartney, Andy Warhol, and Albert Einstein. With a laundry list of inventions, patents, and achievements to their name, it’s hard not to be tempted by a Patek.
What Makes a Patek Philippe a Patek Philippe?
Pioneers of Modern Watchmaking
There’s no doubt that Rolex is the first name that comes to mind when most people think of luxury watches, but if you ask around, the majority of collectors and watch specialists will agree that Patek Philippe is the ultimate name in traditional Swiss watchmaking.
Inextricable from the history of watchmaking as a whole, Patek Philippe has been patenting groundbreaking designs since the 1800s, including the first pocket watches that didn’t require a key to wind the movement or set the time, plus the first Swiss wristwatch, which Patek Philippe made for Countess Koscowicz of Hungary in 1868.
From patenting the perpetual calendar, to producing some of the earliest complicated watches for women, Patek Philippe has been advancing the entirety of watchmaking for literal centuries. Real heads will know, the brand is universally regarded as being among the upper echelon of “Holy Trinity” watchmakers.
Understated Luxury
While some brands vie for greater market share with bold designs, serving future-leaning, mechanical alien life-form for the wrist, Patek Philippe has consistently stuck to a tasteful, conservative approach to design. The brand's watches have an effortless elegance about them, not necessarily demanding attention, but still visibly special.
Blue Chip Status
Early references from Patek Philippe have historically either held or significantly appreciated since their rollouts way back when. The same can also be said of several modern references, confirming that collectors and investors see Patek Philippe watches as not only works of mechanical art, but also reliable stores of value.
Heirloom Grade Horology
In 1996, Patek Philippe made history with what is, without question, their most iconic marketing campaign to date. The now-legendary ads read: “You never actually own a Patek Philippe, you merely look after it for the next generation,” suggesting that their watches were set to become a family heirloom upon purchase. Bold claim, but if anyone is capable of living up to it, it’s Patek Philippe.
Key Patek Philippe Models to Know
Patek Philippe Calatrava
Shop Patek Philippe Calatrava
- Dates: 1932-Present
- Price range: $6,000-$3,000,000+
- Highlights:
- Described by Patek Philippe as “the very essence of the round wristwatch” and “understated perfection”
- Originally inspired by Bauhaus design principles
- The quintessential tasteful luxury watch, by all definitions
- Produced in a wide variety of configurations
Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse
Shop Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse
- Dates: 1968-Present
- Price range: $5,000-$200,000+
- Highlights:
- Notably features an elliptical case shape with “divine” proportions, shared with some of history’s greatest art and architecture
- Represented a radical shift away from traditional watch designs at the time of its introduction
- Produced in a wide variety of configurations
Patek Philippe Gondolo
Shop Patek Philippe Gondolo
- Dates: 1905-Present
- Price range: $5,000-$200,000+
- Highlights:
- Named after Gondolo & Labouriau, a Patek Philippe retailer in Rio de Janeiro from 1872-1927
- Patek Philippe originally designed pocket and wristwatches exclusively for the Brazilian retailer which they called “Chronometro Gondolo”
- New Gondolo references are inspired by early wristwatches produced for the Brazilian market in the 1920s
- Offered in a variety of high jewelry configurations
Patek Philippe Twenty~4
Shop Patek Philippe Twenty~4
- Dates: 1999-Present
- Price range: $7,000-$300,000+
- Highlights:
- Introduced nearly 25 years ago as an exclusive collection of ladies watches
- Patek Philippe says the Twenty~4 collection “epitomizes timeless feminine elegance”
- Available in versions powered by mechanical and quartz movements
- All references in the collection feature factory diamond-set cases
- Produced in a wide variety of configurations
Patek Philippe Aquanaut
Shop Patek Philippe Aquanaut
- Dates: 1997-Present
- Price range: $15,000-$1,000,000+
- Highlights:
- The very definition of subtle, under-the-radar luxury
- Introduced as a younger, more modern alternative to the Nautilus
- Launched alongside the brand’s iconic campaign suggesting that “You never actually own a Patek Philippe. You merely look after it for the next generation.”
- Patek Philippe’s only watch to be primarily offered on a rubber “Tropical” strap
- Produced in a wide variety of configurations
Patek Philippe Nautilus
Shop Patek Philippe Nautilus
- Dates: 1976-Present
- Price range: $15,000-$6,000,000+
- Highlights:
- Named after the submarine in Jules Verne’s 20,000 Leagues Under the Sea
- Designed by Gerald Genta, who’s also credited with designing the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak in 1972
- The Nautilus case mimics the appearance of a hinged submarine porthole
- One of the earliest and most important luxury watches produced in stainless steel
- Has essentially remained aesthetically unchanged since its introduction
- Produced in a wide variety of configurations
Patek Philippe Complications
Shop Patek Philippe Complications
- Dates: 1839-Present
- Price range: $20,000-$7,000,000+
- Highlights:
- Patek Philippe has produced complicated watches — meaning those that perform any function beyond telling the time and date — since the early 1800s
- This collection consists of chronographs, tracking elapsed time; moon phase watches, indicating the current moon phase; world time and travel time watches, allowing multiple time zones to be tracked; annual calendars, indicating the day, date, and month, while accounting for months with 30 and 31 days; and annual calendar chronographs.
- Produced in a wide variety of configurations
Patek Philippe Grand Complications
Shop Patek Philippe Grand Complications
- Dates: 1898-Present
- Price range: $35,000-$30,000,000+
- Highlights:
- Patek Philippe was the first watchmaker to produce a perpetual calendar wristwatch – indicating the day, date, month, and moonphase, remaining accurate for years while accounting for leap years
- Grand Complications from Patek Philippe have historically been commissioned and worn by important figures, including the Dalai Lama
- The most complicated of Patek Philippe Grand Complications include chiming minute repeaters, which tell time with mechanical gongs to produce sound; celestial watches, which display the current night sky, indicating the orbit and phases of the moon along with the movement of stars; and perpetual calendar chronographs, among others
- Produced in a wide variety of different configurations
- The most sought after watches produced by Patek Philippe
Should You Buy a Modern or Vintage Patek Philippe?
Whether you end up choosing a vintage or modern Patek Philippe, the good news is, you’re purchasing one of the best watches money can buy. That said, vintage Patek Philippe is a totally different animal than modern Patek Philippe, and while both are impossibly high quality and carry the legacy of what is arguably watchmaking’s most important name, their ownership experiences are drastically different-looking. That’s because earlier watches from Patek Philippe are generally more fragile than modern references, not to mention, they have high values, which can be significantly impacted by even minor damage.
All this to say, vintage pieces from the brand require you to approach actual wear with a little extra care. No, you won’t break a perpetual calendar from the ‘60s by staring at it for too long and in turn lose your house…but you can’t exactly treat it as you would a Rolex sports watch, for example. If you’re after a watch you can wear every day with a slightly more carefree attitude, a modern Patek Philippe is going to be your best bet.
Bezel’s Patek Philippe Picks
Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5711/1A-010
https://shop.getbezel.com/watches/patek-philippe/nautilus-blue/ref-5711-1a-010/listing/id-828
Patek Philippe Aquanaut Ref. 5167A-001
https://shop.getbezel.com/watches/patek-philippe/aquanaut-black/ref-5167a-001/listing/id-1540
Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5940R-001
https://shop.getbezel.com/watches/patek-philippe/tonneau-shaped-perpetual-calendar-rose-gold-silvered-breguet/ref-5940r-001/listing/id-71
Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Ref. 5270P-001
https://shop.getbezel.com/watches/patek-philippe/perpetual-calendar-chronograph-platinum-salmon/ref-5270p-001/listing/id-963
Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5196P-001
https://shop.getbezel.com/watches/patek-philippe/calatrava-%22tiffany%22/ref-5196p-001/listing/id-60
Patek Philippe Twenty~4 Ref. 4910/1200A-011
https://shop.getbezel.com/watches/patek-philippe/twenty~4-diamond-set-olive-green/ref-4910-1200a-011/listing/id-1633
