Gauthier Borsarello epitomizes the pursuit of turning one's passion into a thriving career like few else. After first training as a classical cellist and playing in French national orchestras, Borsarello pivoted to devoting himself to the study and curation of vintage clothing. Today, he serves as the Creative Director of the French fashion label Fursac, imbuing timeless Parisian style into the brand's endlessly chic collections. Borsarello is naturally something of a watch aficionado, as well, with a respectable and enviable collection to prove it.

In Bezel’s exclusive interview, we sit down with the menswear authority, vintage dealer, and Fursac Creative Director to discuss his introduction to the world of watches, horological trend cycles, plus the most prized watches in his personal collection.

In Conversation with Gauthier Borsarello

Bezel: How did you get into watches? 

GB: It began with my father, who would take me to the Seine-Port flea market on the first Sunday of every month since I was born. Later on, I became friends with a vintage watch dealer named Michel Bigot, who has been kind enough to take the time to teach me about vintage watches: how to look at them, how to price them, how to love them, but not how to style them!

Bezel: What role do modern pieces play in your collection?

GB: I prefer technical watches to be modern–I’d never wear a dive watch I can’t actually swim with. I’ll opt for vintage when the design is better, or the watch in question just doesn’t exist anymore–like my Piaget Altiplano or Patek Philippe Ellipse. If I could find modern references with the same proportion and quality, I’d get them new.

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Bezel: What was your first watch, and what’s the story behind it? 

GB: My passion grew from my first real watch–an extra-thin, gold-plated mechanical piece by YSL that was unfortunately stolen from me during a burglary in Toulouse. I would only wear this one if I were lucky enough to find it again! 

Bezel: How did your collection evolve from there? Have you acquired any stand-out pieces lately? 

GB: 2-3 years ago, I bought a lot to complete my collection. When I say complete, I mean to say I wanted a watch for all of life’s occasions. I no longer have all of those watches, though I can’t say I miss any of them. When I go to the beach or give my kids a bath, I’ll opt for wearing a modern Rolex. I’m covered with my thin, gold vintage watches when attending fancy parties or going out for dinner. So you could say I’m now a bit more calm.

Having said that, I just picked up a beautiful, white gold Rolex Cellini Midas from Julien Toretto at Otottoï watches. I’ve also got another weird unicorn on my list: an Omega Seamaster 200 “Banana” in good condition; it will come to me one day.

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Bezel: What’s your favorite watch in your collection and why?  

GB: That’s impossible to say. It would be like choosing between my daughter and my son! The only watches I’d never sell are the ones gifted by friends or family, including my 1960 Piaget Altiplano and my Rolex Explorer II Ref. 16570 that I received for my 30th birthday.

Bezel: Piaget is finally getting some much-deserved recognition. Why do you think more collectors now gravitate towards perhaps less iconic, more emotion-driven designs? 

GB: I bought ten Piagets five years back when no one wanted them and gave them all to close friends and family when I saw everybody getting one. It’s a product of trend cycles; everyone once wanted dive watches and Omega Speedmasters fitted with tropical dials, and now they want small, fancy jewelry-like pieces. We’ll go back in the opposite direction yet. When you go too far in any one direction, you inevitably end up coming right back to where you started. 

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Bezel: Can you share a few must-have watches listed on Bezel right now?

GB: 

Cartier Baignoire Allongée Ref. 2606

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo “Extra-Thin” 15202BC.OO.1240BC.01

Rolex Oyster Perpetual 41 Ref. 124300-0004

Patek Philippe Aquanaut Ref. 5167A-001

Breguet Classique Moonphase Power Reserve Ref. 3130BA/11/986

Bezel: Why do you continue to enjoy collecting watches? 

GB: I’ve had almost every watch I dreamt about when I was young, and now I have all the watches I need for every situation in life. Now, without the sense of urgency to purchase something new, a watch has to bring me great pleasure to justify adding it to my collection. I’m lucky to have a great advisor assisting with developing my collection–Julien Toretto from Otottoï Watches.

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- Isaac Wingold

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