Discover the history and evolution of colourful watches, from Rolex’s vintage Stella dials to today’s boldest timepieces from Grand Seiko, Tudor, and Audemars Piguet.
For centuries, watches have been more than just tools for telling time—they have been symbols of status, craftsmanship, and personal style. From the lavishly decorated pocket watches of European aristocracy to the precise, refined creations of Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, and the like, luxury has always been intertwined with horology. For much of this history, however, watch design leaned toward restrained elegance, favoring white enamel dials over bolder expressions of vibrancy. Even black dials were once considered unusual, primarily reserved for military and aviation purposes.
But as wristwatches became more than just instruments—transforming into expressions of personality and individuality—color found its way onto the dial, adding vibrancy and flair. Today, colorful watches are everywhere, from entry-level models to high-end haute horlogerie. What started as a rare novelty has become a defining characteristic of modern watch design. But how did we get here? And what are some of the standout pieces leading the charge today? Let’s take a look.
Rewind a century, and the dominant aesthetic in watchmaking was conservative. White enamel and silvered dials were the standard, chosen for their clarity and timeless appeal. Black dials emerged for legibility in professional and military contexts, but colourful dials remained largely absent. However, as wristwatches gained popularity in the early to mid-20th century, brands began experimenting with new tones. Sunburst blues, rich golds, and champagne hues started to appear, hinting at a future where color would play a larger role in watch design.
Then came the 1970s, and with it, a game-changer: the Rolex "Stella" dials. These high-gloss lacquered dials appeared on the Day-Date in a variety of bold hues—deep greens, bright reds, electric blues, and even pastel pinks. While they weren’t an immediate commercial hit, they paved the way for high-end watchmakers to embrace color more freely. Today, vintage Stella dials are highly collectible, and their influence is unmistakable in modern horology. Now, let’s explore some of today’s most compelling colorful watches and see what makes them stand out.
Grand Seiko is renowned for its mastery of dial textures and nature-inspired colours, and the SBGH343G is a perfect example. The pale green dial represents the fleeting transition from spring to summer in Japan—a delicate balance of fresh green leaves ("wakaba") and the lingering blush of cherry blossoms ("sakura").
Beyond its aesthetic charm, this watch is powered by Grand Seiko’s Hi-Beat Caliber 9S85, running at 36,000 vibrations per hour with a 55-hour power reserve. The high-intensity titanium case ensures it remains lightweight yet durable, making it a refined yet playful addition to any collection.
Tudor has built a reputation for blending vintage inspiration with modern performance, and the Black Bay Chrono "Flamingo Blue" is a testament to this philosophy. Its pastel blue dial, contrasted by crisp white sub-dials, evokes the golden era of racing chronographs from the 1960s and ’70s.
Beneath its eye-catching exterior lies Tudor’s in-house Caliber MT5813, a COSC-certified chronometer with a 70-hour power reserve. This model takes the rugged, tool-watch DNA of the Black Bay Chrono and injects it with a fresh, summery energy. Whether you’re a die-hard Tudor fan or just love a good retro colorway, this is a piece worth considering.
When Rolex refreshed its Oyster Perpetual lineup in 2020 with a spectrum of vibrant dials, it reignited the industry’s love for colour. Among them, the bright turquoise dial of the "OP" 41 Ref. 124300-0005 became an instant classic, drawing comparisons to the legendary Stella dials of the 1970s.
Equipped with Rolex’s ultra-reliable Caliber 3230, housed in a robust Oystersteel case, this model blends sportiness with refined simplicity. It’s a watch that proves playful colours aren’t just for limited editions—they can be part of a serious, everyday-wearable timepiece.
If subtlety isn’t your thing, the Royal Oak Offshore Diver in bright orange is a bold alternative. With its signature octagonal bezel and high-contrast design, this watch makes an impression from across the room. But it’s not just about aesthetics—this is a serious dive watch, boasting 300m water resistance, a rotating inner bezel, and the reliable Caliber 3120 automatic movement.
Audemars Piguet has long been known for pushing the boundaries of luxury sports watches, and this Offshore Diver is a prime example of how opulence and audacity can coexist. It’s a conversation piece, whether you’re at a summer event or actually putting its diving capabilities to the test.
Rolex’s Submariner Date might be most recognizable in stainless steel with a black dial, but its two-tone, blue dial brother is perhaps just as iconic. Affectionately nicknamed the “Bluesy” by Rolex devotees, the latest 41mm reference powered by the self-winding caliber 3235 movement exists as a perfect way to collect a classic while adding a pop of color to your watch rotation.
Like any great Submariner, the Bluesy is built to withstand impressive depths, capable of descending 300m below the water’s surface, all while keeping time with Rolex-like accuracy and precision. 18k yellow gold accents and tool-like durability seldom go hand in hand, but leave it to Rolex to rewrite the rules.
Since its mid-1970s introduction, the Cartier Tank Must has provided the perfect entry point into the world of Cartier collecting, offering Tank Louis styling at a slightly more accessible price point. Revived in 2021, the collection now includes vibrant executions of the classic design, including but not limited to this crimson-colored variant.
Powered by a worry-free Swiss quartz caliber and secured to the wrist with a matching red alligator strap, this fiery Tank Must perfectly balances sophistication and everyday reliability. Whether worn casually or dressed up for a special occasion, it’s a watch that’s always sure to make a lasting impression.
The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak revolutionized the watchmaking industry in 1972 by asserting stainless steel’s luxury status. Over five decades later, AP continues innovating with the “Jumbo,” offering this reference crafted from titanium and Bulk Metallic Glass (BMG).
Beyond its unconventional material allure, this Royal Oak reference is further differentiated by its “smoked burgundy” dial, making it among just a handful of references in the collection to have ever been executed in this shade. Collectors who favor icons with a twist are sure to appreciate this one.
The rise of colorful watches reflects a broader shift in how we perceive luxury timepieces. No longer just instruments for measuring time, they are now personal statements, and even artistic expressions in particularly outstanding instances. From the nature-inspired pastels of Grand Seiko to the high-energy hues of Tudor and AP, Rolex, and more, brands are proving that color isn’t just a trend—it’s a fundamental component of modern watchmaking.
Looking to add a colorful watch to your collection? Shop Bezel's curated selection of watches with colorful dials, including top-selling references from watchmaking's most prestigious names.
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