From the revived Tank à Guichets to daring high-jewelry designs, explore the Cartier watches defining Watches & Wonders 2025—refined, complex, and undeniably Cartier.
Watches & Wonders 2025 has once again drawn collectors and enthusiasts to Geneva, and as always, Cartier's booth feels like stepping into a world apart. It’s a familiar space—geometric, luminous, serene—yet within its symmetry and restraint, there is always movement. This year, the Maison balances continuity with invention: a return of the enigmatic Tank à Guichets, the debut of the Tressage collection, fresh expressions of the Panthère de Cartier, and a quietly significant update to the Tank Louis Cartier. In true Cartier fashion, it’s less about spectacle and more about refinement—watches that speak softly but with unmistakable authority.
The Cartier Privé series has become the brand’s stage for revisiting its most esoteric creations, and this year brings back one of its most elusive: the Tank à Guichets. First appearing in 1928 and seen only sparingly since, the watch abandons the traditional dial entirely, instead displaying jumping hours and minutes through two minimalist apertures.
Cartier’s 2025 rendition respects the spirit of the original, while heightening its jewelry-like presence. The case is brushed throughout, save for polished brancards and the inner bevels framing the apertures—details that catch the light just enough to remind you this is still Cartier.
Collectors will have four versions to choose from:
Sized at a slim 37.6 x 24.8 mm and only 6 mm thick, powered by the manual-wind caliber 9755 MC, the Tank à Guichets remains a minimalist object, yet one that wears unmistakably like jewelry. There’s no dial to admire, but collectors will know the quiet complexity lies just beneath the surface.
The Maison’s creative team continues its exploration of jewelry-watchmaking hybrids with the all-new Cartier Tressage. Inspired by braided motifs, the watch is more sculpture than timepiece, its elongated rectangular case wrapped in a pattern of interlacing gold.
Measuring 56.2 x 25.7 mm and a confident 11.5 mm thick, the Tressage is offered in four expressive configurations:
As expected, Cartier’s mastery of asymmetry is quietly at play—the way the "braid" shifts under the light, the slight tension between rigid geometry and organic movement. These are watches that challenge the wearer to see timekeeping as only part of the story, a detail woven into a much larger expression of form and craft.
The Panthère de Cartier, once an emblem of 1980s glamour, continues its graceful evolution. For 2025, the collection adds new diamond-set variations available in yellow and rose gold. The familiar Panthère bracelet now comes factory-set with semi-pavé treatments on both bracelet and bezel, offered in small and medium sizes—a not so subtle sparkle for those who know.
Of course, the high-jewelry Panthères are where Cartier leans fully into its animalier language. This year’s standout executions include:
These are not shy objects. The timekeeping, while present, is decidedly secondary. Here, Cartier reminds us that in certain contexts, a watch is not so much a tool as it is an ornament—and proudly so.
Perhaps the most quietly significant release of the year: Cartier returns an automatic movement to the Tank Louis Cartier for the first time in decades. While the Tank Must collection has flirted with automatics, the Tank Louis Cartier—arguably the purest expression of the form—has remained strictly manual-wind. Until now.
For its 103rd year, the Tank Louis Cartier draws from the 1974 Automatique "Jumbo" but brings the proportions into the present. At 38.1 x 27.75 mm, it sits larger than vintage Tanks but retains the elegance expected of the design. The silvered dial, decorated with a guilloché sunray pattern, is classic Cartier: Roman numerals, blued-steel hands, and a discreet date-free layout.
Available in both yellow and rose gold, the watch houses the Cartier caliber 1899 MC. It’s a release likely to fly under the radar, but for seasoned collectors, it hits precisely the right note—quiet, practical, and faithful to the brand’s design codes without feeling nostalgic for nostalgia’s sake.
Cartier’s 2025 releases show a Maison comfortable in its skin. There is no rush to shock, no grasping for novelty. Instead, each collection extends an ongoing conversation about proportion, elegance, and the blurred line between jewelry and watchmaking. From the severe yet seductive Tank à Guichets to the playful sculpturality of the Tressage, the offerings remind us that Cartier’s greatest strength is knowing when to hold back—and when to surprise.
For collectors looking to explore Cartier watches currently available on Bezel, shop the entire selection here.
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