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The Bezel Report | 2024 Watch Market Trends & Insights

We’re revealing exclusive data from our $500M+ worth of listings, analyzing the most in-demand brands and watch styles, the prevalence of inauthentic watches on the secondary market, and how Bezel provides the best experience not only for buyers but also for sellers.

By

Team Bezel

August 15, 2024

/

10 min read

Watch Market Insights for 2024 H1

Bezel is excited to announce the release of our H1 2024 Watch Market Insights report.

This time, we’re revealing exclusive data from our $500M+ worth of listings, analyzing the most in-demand brands and watch styles, the prevalence of inauthentic watches on the secondary market, and how Bezel provides the best experience not only for buyers but also for sellers.

Our clients come to Bezel because of our commitment to creating the highest standard of authenticity and trust.

Here’s how we do it.

Bezel’s authenticators digitally vet and verify every listing prior to publishing to minimize the potential for transacting upon counterfeits and pieces offered in states of condition inconsistent with the seller’s descriptions. Once watches are transacted upon, they're then shipped to Bezel, where they undergo a multi-point authentication process.

Authentication & Rejection Rates

Since 2022, Bezel has dedicated itself to offering only the highest-quality and most sought-after watches. Every watch listed on Bezel is reviewed by a human prior to going live on the platform. After a watch is sold, the seller is required to ship the watch to our headquarters, where it goes through a multi-point, industry-leading authentication process by our in-house team of experts to ensure authenticity, period correctness, and full functionality. 

By maintaining strict standards, Bezel guarantees you only receive the watch that is exactly as it was described at the point of purchase.

This is why in H1 2024, Bezel rejected 24% of listings submitted to the platform, which is slightly higher than last year’s report at 23%.

Watches that don't meet Bezel's standards are rejected, dutifully protecting buyers from fraudulent forgeries and stolen property subject to seizure while also ensuring proper functionality commensurate with age.
Throughout the first half of 2024, watches from Rolex and Cartier were among those most often rejected by Bezel's in-house team of expert authenticators. Given the popularity of watches from both brands, the sheer prevalence of deceiving examples came as no surprise.

But, what gets a watch rejected from Bezel? We asked our Head of Watch Operations Ryan Chong for a couple examples.

Catching a swapped movement in a Patek Philippe Ladies’ Nautilus Reference 4700/51

As a result of the movement's architecture, lack of branding, and the vibration frequency of the quartz tuning fork, Bezel's in-house authenticators were able to determine this caliber's inauthenticity.


A watch’s external components may be completely correct and authentic, but the only way to know if the movement is correct is to open the case back. In this case, when the watch was opened and inspected by our team, the quartz module found to be powering the watch was a generic third-party movement. 

“Operationally, the watch was working fine, but because the watch no longer had the original Patek Philippe quartz module, it alters the value and authenticity of the watch,”according to Chong. “Watches like this do not pass Bezel’s authentication standards and cannot be sold on our platform.”

A wiped Rolex Warranty Card with a Two-Tone Rolex Datejust 41 Ref. 126331-0010

"Wiped" warranty cards are more prevalent than one might expect–ensuring this small albeit crucial detail isn't overlooked is just one of the many ways in which Bezel protects its community of watch collectors.

During our authentication process, we inspect all aspects of the watch, as well as the accessories it comes with. 

Here, the watch was found to be completely authentic, however, the warranty card was not. Also referred to as “papers”, the card was altered or “wiped”  with a more recent date written in. 

“This is done to increase the value and desirability of the watch on the secondary market,” said Chong. “Because the watch being advertised did not match the watch being sold, it cannot be sent to the member who bought it. 

An inauthentic bezel insert on a Rolex GMT-Master II Pepsi Reference 16710

Along with our in-person inspection after purchase, before a watch is listed publicly on Bezel, it is reviewed digitally by Bezel’s authentication team. 

Caught before even hitting the platform, this GMT-Master II didn't meet Bezel's standards as a result of its aftermarket "Pepsi" bezel insert.

“From the images, the authentication team noticed the aftermarket bezel insert on this GMT-Master II,” said Chong. “This listing was rejected before listing, and never made it onto our platform.”

Our goal is to build the highest level of trust with members before they even make a purchase. This is one of the many ways we do that.

Catching a split-seconds chronograph that didn’t “split” on a Hublot King Power Foudroyante 

All watches sold on Bezel are expected to function reliably, in a consistent manner. Rejecting the sale of this Hublot protected its prospective buyer from a costly mechanical overhaul.

Not only do we inspect all aspects of the watch and accessories to ensure they are fully authentic and original to the watch sold, we also run every watch through robust functionality testing, including pressure and timing tests,  as well as ensuring all complications are in working order. 

In this case, during our diagnostic testing the watchmaking team found that the split-seconds chronograph was not in working order. 

“Often many of these watchmaking fixes are reasonably quick and inexpensive,” according to Chong. “But when watches are complicated like this one, we are able to save the client from the frustration of a costly, complicated, and prolonged repair.”

America’s Most Wanted

Bezel is here to give the people what they want.

On top of sales on the Bezel platform, we also track which watches our members “want”, similar to a bookmark or favorite on any other platform. The motivation behind this function is:

  • It’s simply a watch you want and you’re likely waiting for the right example, price, or time to buy in the immediate future.
  • It’s an aspirational want. Maybe you can’t buy it in the immediate future, but it’s something you want to buy one day.

Like house hunting for homes you can’t afford on Zillow, we think many of our members want to understand the market for aspirational watches, so maybe one day, when they’re ready to buy, they can make an informed decision.

Unsurprisingly, Rolex was the brand most “wanted”, followed by Omega and Tudor.

Steel was overwhelmingly the most wanted material, with more than 78% of total wants, and 2021 was the year most wanted (but more on that below).

Naturally, Wants by brand on Bezel corresponded closely with market trends, in addition to transaction data gathered from marketplace sales.

 

Once again aligning with the tastes of contemporary collectors, steel watches represented the most sought-after watches on Bezel, followed by two-tone steel and gold pieces, along with those executed in lightweight titanium.
Speaking to the popularity of watch-collecting in recent years, the most wanted watches on Bezel were all released within the last decade.
Bezel's community of collectors agreed that a black dial simply can't be beat, with 42% of Wants on the marketplace fitted with sleek and inky black dials.
Demonstrating a preference towards watches versatilely-sized watches with presence, pieces measuring 41 mm across represented the most sought-after among Bezel users.

Sales Breakdown By Brand

While sales by brand seem to follow along the same lines as “wants” in this report, we see a slight departure from sales by brand from last year’s report.

This year, the most wanted brands were Rolex, Omega, and Tudor, while last year’s report saw Rolex, Omega, and Cartier taking the top spots. Along the same vein, while Rolex holds the majority of sales this year at 37%, this is a decrease from last year’s 40%.

We also saw TAG Heuer jump up to the fourth most ordered brand on Bezel this year, when it didn’t even break the top 10 last year.

Why?

Our Concierge team consistently receives requests for models that aren’t currently on the Bezel platform. They range from ultra premium models costing +$1M to more affordable ones like TAG Heuer. 

Once we hit the critical mass of requests for TAG, we went out to our extensive network of sellers to get more Tag models listed and saw our members snap them up.

We’ve set out to build the best possible watching buying experience not only for seasoned collectors, but also those just starting their journey, as well.

This has been our bet from the beginning and we see it still working particularly well for young collectors.

This year, 70% of Bezel’s sales come from Gen Z and Millennials, with Gen Z having the highest AOV. 

“We think this is because of Gen Z's comfort with online shopping, inclination towards premium products, and desire for unique, high-quality items that reflect their personal values and style,” said Bezel co-founder and CEO Quaid Walker. “And similarly with Millennials, who have been well-established in their careers and have the disposable income to continue to drive sales volume through consistent purchases.”

Gen Z buyers on Bezel demonstrated their commitment to and confidence in the world of watch collecting, making up 70% of sales on the marketplace throughout the first half of 2024.

Closely corresponding with market trends and popular collecting tastes, Rolex watches made up the largest portion of sales on Bezel in the first half of the year.
Albeit with a slight variance, sales by case material aligned closely with wants by case material, with steel once again representing the most popular alloy.
Watches with black dial were favored by Bezel buyers in the first half of 2024, making up 41% of sales on the marketplace.
Sales by case size, too, aligned closely with wants by case size, once again speaking to the preeminence of 41 mm watches.

Modern to Vintage and Everything Between

Time and time again, we see the majority of sales coming from watches originally released in the last decade.

Bezel members are young and mostly first-time watch buyers, so it makes sense that they’d gravitate towards newer watches. Whether it’s to acquire the latest and greatest styles from storied brands, or for practical reasons like a partial manufacturer’s warranty remaining with the watch, there are many reasons why we see modern watches selling quickly and often. What’s been surprising is the follow-up purchases from these same buyers. As their orders continue, the age of the watches typically increases.

Bezel’s multi-layer authentication process that’s applied to all orders becomes even more pertinent as the watch (and its accessories) increase in age. Specifically, making sure:

  • All components are authentic and period-correct
  • The watch is free and clear of any claims against it by checking the serial number through a lost and stolen database
  • Functionally, the watch is working appropriately for its age

With this trend in mind, we expect that we will see sales for older and older watches as time goes on. 

Demonstrating the immense popularity of recent releases, watches introduced within the last decade represented the Bezel's most often transacted upon.

Where We Go From Here

Since Bezel launched, we’ve changed the game for collectors by providing an unrivaled level of trust on the secondary market. The 1,000+ 5-star reviews on the App Store and a 4.9 out of 5 star rating on third-party platforms like Trustpilot speak for themselves.

But while we’ll never stop raising the bar on what authenticity and transparency can be for consumers, we’re also dedicated to providing the best-in-class experience for professional sellers, as well. 

Bezel has built a suite of robust tools designed to streamline the selling process, a dynamic pricing engine for every model that our team leverages to help advise sellers on pricing, and more. This, along with our ability to drive hundreds of thousands of qualified watch buyers onto our platform every month, is why sellers consistently give rave reviews about Bezel. The median time it takes to sell a watch is half as long on Bezel as it is on other platforms, and a payout time of one to two days, as opposed to seven plus on others, doesn’t hurt either.

As Bezel looks ahead, we’ll look for new ways to enhance the overall experience for both buyers and sellers alike, and solidify our position as a leader on the secondary market.

About Bezel:

Bezel is a marketplace for buying and selling luxury watches. Bezel gives you access to thousands of the most collectible watches, curated for you daily. Every watch sold goes through our rigorous, in-house authentication process so you can shop with 100% confidence. Don’t see the exact timepiece you’re looking for? Reach out to our concierge team, and we will source it for you from our network of trusted sellers and collectors.

Buy, Sell, and Bid with confidence on the Bezel app or visit us at getbezel.com today.

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