Though complications are undeniably impressive and indicative of highly specialized expertise, a great watchmaker’s time-only creations are perhaps more telling of the extent to which they’ve mastered their craft. Solely conveying the hours, minutes, and sometimes seconds, there’s little room to pad these timepieces with superfluous distraction, leaving the unelaborated value of their design, execution, and finishing to be assessed with ease.

Considering this truth, we’ve compiled a succinct selection of the best time-only watches available today, including picks from Rolex, Cartier, A. Lange & Söhne, and more.

Shop Bezel’s entire curated collection of time-only watches here.

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Rolex Submariner Ref. 124060-0001

Since the 1967 introduction of the date-equipped Submariner, many collectors have understandably opted for the usefully complicated variant of Rolex’s famed deep-diving icon. Still, for true purists, there’s simply no match for the benchmark-setting dive watch in its original, time-only form. Synonymous with its horological subcategory and longstanding material fixture of popular culture, the Submariner is simply unequaled.

In its most modern form, the “no-date” Submariner is arguably the ultimate everyday dive watch currently available. Following in the footsteps of many a Sub before it, the reference 124060 adheres to the canonical collection’s signature design language, characterized by a pitch-black dial, geometric luminous indices, and “Mercedes” style hands. Always know you can’t go wrong with a Rolex Submariner.

A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Ref. 233.026

From the dawn of the esteemed Glashütte manufacture to this very day, A. Lange & Söhne has firmly asserted that not only the Swiss are to be credited with producing the world’s most stately horological expressions. Employing a restrained albeit infinitely tasteful design language, along with some of the industry’s best-executed finishing techniques, the German watchmaker’s works are nothing short of awe-inspiring and justifiably rank highly on the wishlists of today’s top collectors.

Fitted with blued steel hands and a dial decorated using the brand’s signature Arabic numerals, the 1815 epitomizes A. Lange & Söhne’s unique brand of subtle sophistication. Conveying the basics in supreme style, this manually-wound, time-only reference is powered by the in-house caliber L051.1, boasting 188 components, 23 watch jewels, and a respectable 55 hours of power reserve.

Panerai Luminor Base Logo 3 Days Ref. PAM01086

Described by Panerai devotees (AKA Paneristi) and the brand itself as a “Luminor Base,”  this ever so slightly textured, matte black dial-fitted reference upholds the ideals of minimalist style, indicating just the hours and minutes in a highly legible manner. Being a Luminor, you’d better believe it’s finished with applications of Super-LumiNova, allowing the brawny, heritage-inspired design to be relied upon in demanding, dimly-lit situations.

Like other references in the famed Luminor collection, the PAM01086 measures a striking 44 mm across and is flanked by Panerai’s signature lever-equipped crown guard, contributing to an unquestionably overbuilt, confidence-inspiring feel on the wrist.

Cartier Tank Louis Cartier Ref. WGTA0091

Every collection needs a Cartier, oozing with timeless elegance to the nth degree. While there may be many options that’ll certainly scratch that itch, we’d be inclined to suggest that there’s no better timepiece from the brand than the famed Tank Louis Cartier, named for the Maison’s founder himself.

Though it might not be the most traditional execution of Cartier’s timeless Tank watch, the reference WGTA0091 is easily one of the most striking variants to date. Featuring a yellow gold case, and a black dial free of adornment apart from a Cartier signature and requisite “SWISS MADE” designation, the Tank Louis Cartier takes on a bold albeit still elegant appearance that’s difficult to resist.

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Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 6119G-001

No trustworthy guide to the world of time-only watch collecting would be complete without mention of the model that’s long set the standard. For nearly a century, the Patek Philippe Calatrava has been internationally recognized as the single most refined, serially-produced collection of time-only watches, reinforcing minimalist Bauhaus principles with unmatched poise.

Those in search of an equal parts polished and versatile reference ought to consider the 6119G-001, first introduced in 2021, and met with a great deal of deserved praise. At 39 mm across, this Patek Philippe is sized for contemporary tastes, though don’t think for a second that this comes at the cost of sacrificing that signature, Calatrava savoir-faire. With a “Clous de Paris” decorated bezel, and an impeccably-finished, manually-wound caliber 30-255 PS movement, this reference is chock full of delightful details.

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