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The Best Skeleton Watches

With no shortage of compelling skeletonized watches in today’s market, we’ve compiled a selection of a few stand-out favorites from Cartier, Patek Philippe, Zenith, and more.

By

Team Bezel

October 10, 2024

/

8 min read

Boasting hundreds of minuscule, handmade components working together to tell the time both precisely and reliably, it’s no secret that mechanical watch movements are absolute marvels of engineering. However, appreciating that very micro-mechanical magic can prove rather difficult once cased and fitted with a dial. Enter the skeleton watch, putting the artistry of horology in clear view using minimalistic, decorated bridges that display the full extent of the intricately crafted mechanism.

With no shortage of compelling skeletonized watches in today’s market, we’ve compiled a selection of a few stand-out favorites from Cartier, Patek Philippe, Zenith, and more.

Shop Bezel’s entire curated collection of skeletonized watches here.

Cartier Pasha de Cartier Skeleton Ref. WHPA0007

Drawing inspiration from a historic, waterproof Cartier watch commissioned by the Pasha of Marrakesh in the 1930s, the Cartier Pasha demonstrates the Maison’s unique ability to produce truly elegant watches, including those designed with sporting applications in mind. Though the Pasha lends itself more so to dressier settings in this skeletonized form, you can rest assured knowing it’s still water-resistant down to 100 feet below the surface.

Apart from its skeletonized execution, this Cartier timepiece is set apart thanks to its bracelet, which features the brand’s patented “SmartLink” adjustment and “QuickSwitch” interchangeability systems. Together, these two distinguishing characteristics allow the Pasha to be easily suited to one’s liking and, perhaps most notably, without the use of tools.

Patek Philippe Calatrava Skeleton Ref. 5180/1R-001

Skeletonized watches from Patek Philippe are few and far between, making this Calatrava something of a historic rarity, worthy of consideration by collectors for whom only the best will do.  Powered by the Holy Trinity manufacture’s micro-rotor Caliber 240 SQU, and hand-engraved to the nth degree, this rose gold reference is certainly a statement piece of the most impressive nature despite measuring a conservative 39 mm across.

Furthering the appeal of the Calatrava Skeleton is its 15-piece rose gold bracelet, produced exclusively for this reference and regarded as a jewelry-like work of art in its own right. Look no further if you’re after something outstanding or find yourself envying Kyle Kuzma’s example.  

Zenith Defy El Primero 21 Skeleton Ref. 95.9000.9004/78.R582

Proving that not all noteworthy skeletonized watches have to break the bank entirely is Zenith’s Defy El Primero 21 Skeleton, easily acquirable well below the $10k mark in today’s watch-collecting market. Though its aesthetics may lean more toward the avant-garde, this dual-register chronograph still nods to the El Primero’s heritage due to its blue and red accents, as seen in the earliest iterations of the now iconic model.  

In addition to its characteristic chronograph complication, this skeletonized El Primero reference, hailing from the brand’s Defy collection, also features an always useful power reserve indicator at the twelve o’clock position, denoting the degree to which its movement’s mainspring is wound.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Skeleton Ref. 25636BA

Designed by Gérald Genta himself, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak is an icon in the truest sense of the word, having notably pioneered the luxury sports watch subcategory in its entirety. Since its introduction, the important Swiss watchmaker has iterated on the celebrated design to great acclaim, producing complicated, skeletonized versions of the octagonal grail among other distinguished variants.

Produced throughout the late 1980s and early 1990s, the perpetual calendar-equipped reference 25636BA represents one of AP’s finest efforts in the skeletonized watchmaking space, indicating the day, date, month, and moon phase with unmatched accuracy. In solid 18k yellow gold, this complex and finely crafted work of haute horology communicates its opulence in a universally understood manner.

Bulgari Octo Finissimo Skeleton Ref. 103126

Multi-faceted, ultra-thin, and deceptively lightweight, this skeletonized Bulgari from the Italian luxury house’s Octo Finissimo is a case study in design-focused watchmaking, delighting collectors with its architectural case shape.

Executed in scratch-resistant ceramic and secured to the wrist with a matching ceramic bracelet, this extra-thin expression of contemporary watchmaking is fit for any collection of innovative and experimental designs.

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